Mallorca--3/12--3/17/11

Cathedral at Palma, Mallorca

Ancient windmill on the road to Alaro

almost to the top of Castelo d'Alaro

mountains north of Palma

We hiked to the top

Gloria, Ann & Terry at Es Verger for lunch

house decor at Vallemossa

close-up of our first course

we saw a lot of sheep

What a beautiful view of the Mediterranean

tiles on the homes at Valldemossa

my fav

It's not what we expected. Mallorca is a really beautiful island that has so much to offer. I expected something smaller, I don't know why. But it's very large with mountains all around that are quite tall, 4000 feet, which are amazing for an island. Surrounding this wooded island is, of course, the magnificent Mediterranean, the body of water that is so clear with varying hues of blue and green.

Every day that we drive we see thousands of cyclists because it's an area that is perfect for cycle training. The weather is decent, not too much rain normally; the roads are good and not too crowded in the country; Spain at this part of the year is less expensive. It's pretty fun to see all the bright colors in a line or a group, and because our friend Terry is a cyclists in Great Britain, he is able to explain so much about the sport of bicycle racing and touring. That makes it even more interesting.

Terry and Ann are friends we met when we went to Ecuador to the Galapagos Islands. They are the ones whose home we went to in France and picked grapes a few years ago. Very fun to be with. So, when we decided to stop in Spain on our way back from Egypt (earlier plans), we asked them if they'd like to meet us in Mallorca. So, they flew down and rented a car while we reserved a condo, and it worked out very well. They have visited Mallorca several times, so they know the island pretty well and were able to show us several places we likely wouldn't have seen.

We took several hikes. Our favorite was the 3 hour hike to an old castle-fort site that was 2500 feet up with sheer drop-offs and beautiful, enormous bolders. After we got back down, we ate at a quaint farmhouse and had snails for the first time in our lives. Then we had lamb with roasted potatoes, pork chops, salad, olives and wheat bread, with wine. For dessert, homemade flan. It was delicious and way too much food!

The sun, which was in and out, came out often when we wanted our coffee and cakes, either around 11 or 3. We did have some really tasty treats; my favorite was a lemon tart with meringue that we ate in Soller, Mallorca. Terry's favorite was an apricot puff pastry that we had in Barcelona. But there were lots more that were pretty fabulous. Oh, I forgot about the crepe with bourbon gelato and orange sauce. Hmmm. Hard choice.

When the sun wasn't out and the rain was coming down, it was very chilly. The wind also made it uncomfortably cold, so we wore our jackets and hats most of the time. Every so often, I wished for gloves, and I'm extremely grateful for Tamara's advice to wear a scarf. Not sure we'll travel much north of 15 degrees in the winter anymore.

The architecture we saw all over Spain, Portugal and Morocco was most intriguing. It ranged from 800 BC (or earlier) to 1900's and was a wide variety of styles from Romanesque to Gaudi. We were constantly looking up at columns, rooflines, windows and shutters, mantels, balconies, wrought iron, and sparkling surfaces. Both inside and out, each building was a marvel. The architecture of the Moors found in all 3 countries is so unique, we were constantly surprised. Their use of colors, shapes, rooflines, and gardens with water features invited visitors to stay and enjoy their quiet beauty.

Small quaint villages boast doorways with pots of red, white or pink cyclamen or ferns, or lilies that invite visitors into narrow lanes with walls of stacked rocks or limestone. So many houses in Spain have green shutters of various shades with walls of pale yellow, pink, or white. In many of the towns we visited, homes had beautifully hand painted tiles at the entry. On Mallorca, we noticed this especially in Valldemossa a picturesque and charming village nestled in the mountains, but we saw this in other villages, too. Port de Soller on the northwest coast of the island is a small town that begins at the edge of the Mediterranean and sweeps up the mountains with both large villas and small houses all along its valleys and sides. The homes are beautiful—natural stone with red tile roofs against the blue of the sea. Big boulders hang over the sides and sheep graze on the slopes. We got to visit Robert Graves' home in Deia where there were also sheep on the nearby hillsides and homes clinging to the cliffs.

Port de Soller, Mallorca

Cyclists on every road!

Our trip is at its end; we were privileged to see and do so much, I can't describe it all here. The culture in these countries is so fascinating, and we enjoy both the art and architecture of each one. Of course the food is of huge interest to us, and we love to taste, try to figure out the ingredients, and make plans to try to reproduce it at home, which is where we are now. Thank you for your interest in our blog and for your letters and messages to us. We love to travel, but we do miss our home, family and friends, and we sink down in our own bed, grateful to be home, but already making plans for our next trip, which, by the way, is to Poland, Hungary and Austria on May 21. We hope you can catch our blog while we're there.  (http://www.terryandgloriainpoland.blogspot.com/)

Barcelona--day 3&4, 3/10--3/11/11

Raptor on La Rambla

Casa Batllo

Casa Batllo front window

Barcelona is an architect enthusiast's dream.  Seeing Gaudi's work is an extraordinary delight, and today's visit to Casa Batllo (pronounced Baht-YOU) didn't disappoint.  It opened at 9 am, and we were there at 8:45, so first in line and into the 5 story mansion practically alone.  What a unique and utterly fantastic home for the Batllo family!  Five stories of curves, vortexes, waves, and arches; Gaudi based his designs on nature which has no straight lines, he believed.  The windows were both clear and stained glass, patterned with circles like bubbles rising from the sea.  The walls were pale colored with very fine lines that reminded visitors of fish scales.  The ceilings were swirls reminiscent of water flowing on sand or eddys in a river.  The audio guide reported that during this time Jules Verne's book 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea was very popular and influenced Gaudi, turning his attention to that of the ocean's realm.  The house was almost like a live creature itself with arches that looked like the inside of a fish.  The tiles in the lightwell (that really was an enormous 5 story skylight, providing light in the center areas of the home), were various shades of blue like the house was under water.  In all his creations, Gaudi took special interest in every detail, even to the door knobs, handrails, and furniture contained within.  The roof had a special effect--that of a dragon sitting on top of the gable, the blue and green tiles forming the ridge on its back.   What a magnificent home!

Casa Batllo light well

Casa Batllo roof line

The plan to visit as much of Barcelona as possible meant we had to pace ourselves, so we pushed hard to see what we could in the morning and lessen our  in the afternoon.  This afternoon we decided we would just wander La Rambla, a famous street with lots of stores and restaurants on each side.  On one side of the street is a very large market filled with all kinds of food:  meat, fish, vegetables, fruits, prepared food, cheeses, and candies.  Down the center is a very wide walkway with many, many people walking and others providing entertainment.  There were several people dressed up as monsters, dragons, flamenco dancers, an angel, a raptor, and everything imaginable.  It was quite an amazing sight. 

Casa Mila

Our final day in Barcelona meant we had to choose among many sights to see.  We decided we'd like to see Casa Mila, another of Gaudi's masterpieces.  This was built as an apartment building with all the details in it that Casa Batllo has.  We also saw Esglesia de Santa Maria del Mar and the Picasso Museum, walked the waterfront and had some more fabulous food.  Tomorrow it's off to Mallorca.

Barcelona---days 1 & 2 3/8--3/9/11

Plaza Catalunya

calamari, salad and fried egg

crepe, bourbon gelato and orange sauce

The flight from Porto, Portugal to Barcelona was short and got us here with enough time to be able to walk La Rambla for a couple of hours.  This major street that offers everything, especially cafes, was amazingly busy considering it's only early March and it's freezing.  Nevertheless, we zipped our coats and strolled along imagining how even more wonderful it'd be in a few more weeks.  Stopped for lunch of beefsteak, fries, calamari rings, a salad and a fried egg on both plates.  Interesting and actually for being something we don't usually have along with those things, pretty good.  We immediately began planning our dinner--tapas and wine.

Bright and early we are up and walking to La Familia Sagrada, Antoni Gaudi's most famous structure.  It's a magical piece of architecture, all curves and based on nature's shapes.  He oversaw every minute detail (until he died before it was finished) and it has plenty of detail!  The outside of the building
itself is pretty amazing, very modern looking yet having an old world feel.  On one side there are very cubist sorts of statues attached to the outside in many niches, and on the opposite side the statues seem more fluid

and centuries old.

La Sagrada Familia

The inside of the church is a wonder of about 40 pillars that branch off like trees. It's very hard to describe but looking up seems like a forest canopy.  The statue of Christ is hanging from what appears to be a parachute-like structure surrounded by lights, creating a glowing, golden umbrella.

Just when we thought nothing could be more amazing, we went to Parc Guell, a park designed by Gaudi in 1900 that also contained his home.  The park, which begins with 2 gate houses a la Hansel and Gretel and one fantastic lizard made of colored tile, is surrounded by one continuous (and surprisingly comfortable) concrete bench, decorated with beautiful pieces of tile, that serpentines around the flat open space covering about the size of a football field.  Lots of people were sitting, enjoying the sun that decided to pop out while children chased bubbles blown by a man with a homemade bubble wand of ropes.  But that is only a small part of the entire park.  The entire park is probably more like 20 acres with foot paths that wind around various plants and trees. 

At one edge of the park is Gaudi's home, another structure that shows his genius. 

Feet aching, we make it back to our hotel with tummies rumbling and much anticipation for our tapas.  Tonight we try Spanish omelette, roasted pepper salad, and baby squids Andalucian style.  Our dessert is a crepe filled with bourbon gelato and the most fantastic orange sauce I have ever tasted.

Porto 3/6--3/7/11

Aliados Square, still celebrating Carnival in front of the library

Well, if we had had more time here, and if we hadn't gotten lost and had to hike up and down hill looking for Taylor's Port Winery, and if we hadn't been here on a Monday when all the museums were closed, we might have seen far more than we did.  But, all-in-all, in the short time we were here, we got to see a couple of the more famous churches, Sao Francisco and Clerigos Church and Tower, the fine architecture of the Stock Exchange Palace (it was closed today), the refinishing of the mansion of Prince Henry the Navigator (it was closed for renovation), and the beautiful tile work inside the Sao Bento Train Station.  And we ate dessert and coffee twice at the luscious Cafe de Paris, had a great lunch and view at Taylor's winery, and strolled on both shores of the Ribera Duoro for what seemed like miles and miles. Not too bad, eh?

French macaroons at Cafe de Paris

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Our breakfast at Cafe de Paris

Some bigger kids celebrating Carnival....or something

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Clerigos Church and Tower 1731

house covered completely in tile!  pretty common here

Serra do Pilar Monastary

A rabelo, special boat to take wine to Porto, with city in background

Tiles in train station depicting Henry the Navigator overthrowing the Moors

Now we are at our hotel at the airport, trying to make our luggage fit the specifications of Ryanair.  Tomorrow morning at 6:30 we fly to Barcelona.  We'll catch up with you from there. 

School kids celebrating Carnival

Bridge at Pinhao

Douro River Valley

Coimbra is a university town; in fact, it's the 2^nd oldest in Europe after Bologna. Founded in 1290, it used a palace as its beginning, adding on until the 1500's. We had enough time to visit 3 main buildings in the university complex before it started to rain.

The most impressive was the Baroque Library or King Joao's Library. Talk about the quintessential library setting! Consisting of 2 main rooms on the ground floor, the walls of dark wood with gold leaf trim (brought from Brazil) exuded rich and exotic vibes. The South American wood reading tables are inlaid with different woods and complemented by silver ink wells. All of the 30,000 books there date before 1755 and are leather-bound. Below the library is a prison, now turned into a research room for students who have the right credentials.

The small but opulent St. Michael's chapel has a unique 18^th century organ with pipes that stick out like trumpets ready to herald the royalty or maybe the church leaders. The king and his family sat at the back of the chapel in a high box with a great view of the richly ornamented altar---lots of gold leaf!

Our place of residence for the night was at the Melia Palacio de Lousa, a hotel renovated from a palace situated about 30 minutes from Coimbra. It had a beautiful entrance and really picturesque marble stairs, and the rooms were very warm and inviting. After being in the Lisbon hotel with marble altars for beds and one inch pillows, we were thrilled with the soft mattress and downy pillows we found. The town of Lousa is pretty small and because it is some distance away from a major town, the hotel was very reasonable. We wrestled with lots of narrow side streets and lots of places to get turned around and lost. We drove around and up and down streets for half an hour before finding our way to the main road.

At last we were headed in the right direction but unfortunately missed our turnoff for the Douro River Valley. I don't think it was marked, but we turned back around and managed to twist and turn and fall onto the right road and by sheer luck came out at the correct junction and stumbled our way into Pinhao. We passed up 3 restaurants and decided we had to take the next one we came to as we walked through town because we both had to use the bathroom. The restaurant was full of locals (a good sign). We ate the only thing they had on the menu which was a traditional Portugese dinner. First they brought out bread and green olives, then roast pork covered with turnip greens, then lamb with potatoes, onions, carrots and green peppers, then lima bean soup with sausage and ham, then fruit and flan and coffee (they call the half milk and half coffee “galao”). Oh, my! The owner asked us if we had a room for the night (he had one available); we didn't, so we looked at it and took it. Very inexpensive and it included breakfast! We had to walk our dinner off for a couple of hours before going to bed!

Unfortunately, we could stay only one night in Pinhao, but the next day was partly sunny, so we really enjoyed our drive out of the valley. It was a jumble quilt of grape vineyards the entire way and as high as the top of the mountains. Spectacular! Our little road was like a snake as it made its way through the valley, following the curves of the river. Sometimes we were at the river's level and other times we were at the top of the mountain, always on a road that curls back toward itself as it swings up and down. After a couple of hours, we found a restaurant that had a beautiful view, so we stopped for lunch. Not being able to read Portugese, we guessed at something that sounded like seafood and were rewarded with a huge pot of shrimp, clams, mussels, calamari, and crab all together with rice. It could have fed 4 people. We did our best, but we couldn't get it all eaten.

Now off to Porto to turn in our car and see what we can find there.

Liston, Belen, Sintra Pension Geres 2/28---3/5/11

The bus ride to Lisbon from Sevilla was a long one, but it showed us much of the Spanish and Portugese countryside with many small white ground flowers, gnarly cork trees, grape vines ready to sprout green leaves, orange trees with those beautiful orbs, rocky hills, cows and sheep. We stopped in Faro, a town almost at the Algarve, in the southern part of the country to change buses at the halfway point, then on to Lisbon.

Rossio Square--heart of old town Lisbon

Gulbankian Museum, Turkish room

Gulbankian Museum, Mrs. Claude Monet

African influence in Portugal

our streetcar

Carriage Museum--Cinderella's ??

Cathedral of Jeronimo

Pena Palace, Sintra

Lisbon is a very big and busy city although we kept pretty much to the old town center and learned it fairly easily and quickly. There are lots of squares usually with fountains or statues of Portugese heroes and surrounded by outdoor cafes and restaurants. It certainly suits our tastes, and we took every advantage to have breakfast, lunch and dinner outside. Rossio Square, the area our hotel is in, is the heart of the oldest part of the city, and was rebuilt on a grid system after the 1755 earthquake (it was estimated at 9.0) toppled nearly the entire center. We are in a perfect place for seeing the major sites of the city. Our hotel is, however, in a very old building and is definitely “old world” including the old bed that conjures up an altar (it's that hard) that might be used for a sacrifice. The pillows are at least 1' thick, almost a mirage, and we think they might have been from the 1800's, too. The garbage is collected in the middle of the night, and, the first time I heard the old carts coming down the narrow and winding street of marble squares, it sounded like we might be living during the plague epidemic. Well, it was very inexpensive and in the perfect location.

One day we took the old trolley around town, up to the castle, down narrow streets that we heard were so small cars can't pass and might stop the trolley in its tracks. Sure enough, we started up one street, met a car that couldn't or wouldn't back up, and the trolley driver just stopped. Of course, the people, who were all locals except for us, were so aggravated they stood up and started yelling at the driver who thought he might just walk away from his car. But no, they chastised him so badly that he got back in and made the attempt to get closer to the building; we inched by, missing him by such a tiny bit that I was sure I'd hear a crunch before we passed entirely.

The Gulbenkian Art Museum was a great surprise. We had never heard of it but read about it and decided it'd be interesting to visit. Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian oil tycoon, fled to Portugal during WWII, and when granted asylum here, he decided to donate all his art covering 5000 years to the Portugese people. It is really an amazing collection.

The next day we took the trolley again to another part of town called Belem district. We first had coffee at an 1837 establishment, a cafe that produced the very first pastel de Belem, a phyllo cup filled with warm vanilla custard, covered with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Yum. Then we could start our day properly. First, we went to the Carriage Museum, an astounding collection of beautiful horse-drawn coaches, from as early at the 14^th century. What ostentatious pieces of transportation, all of them belonging to royalty or the early popes, given to one another for weddings, birthdays, or other special occasions. No wonder the common people became so disgusted with the way their tax money was used that they revolted and drove out the aristocracy in many cases.

The Jeronimo Cathedral holds Vasco da Gama's tomb, but since he died in India, chances are he's not there. It's very ornate, though, and looks at home in the 1500's Manueline architecture of the church which is blinding white on the outside with what seems like hundreds of statues carved in the walls, corners and parts of the roofline. There are lots of curlicues, braided ropes, spires, motifs from the sea, and artichokes (sailors ate them to prevent scurvv during early exploration) built into the church's décor. This was the time during which Portugese sailors brought back spices from their exploration and made Portugal one of the richest countries in the world.

Everyone kept talking about Sintra, the city where the nobility would go to get out of Lisbon (probably in the heat of the summer). We took the train for the 45 minute journey and were delighted with this little town at the base of many hills that held the Pena Palace, a very colorful and ornate castle built by Ferdinand II in the late 1800's. He was the cousin of Ludwig of Germany, the one who designed Neuschwanstein Castle, and Ferdinand evidently had the idea that the more elaborate and fantastic he could make Pena Palace, the better. It is a cross between Walt Disney and 1001 Arabian Nights.

The other site we took in was the National Palace, begun in the 13^th Century by King John I and last changed in the 15^th century by King Manuel II. Also very beautiful, it was calmer than Pena Palace and though it contained many rooms, they were more useable and majestic. The kitchen was enormous and obviously built for entertaining.